Archive for the ‘surfing’ Tag

Cold Bottom   Leave a comment

Living next to the ocean, I get to drive by it every day to and from work and errands.  I love seeing the ocean every day.  It is a huge blessing to me, and I never ever get tired of it.

With the ocean, at least in this area, comes surfers.  Surfers pulled over to the side of the highway, checking out the waves.  Surfers crossing the highway with their boards.  Surfers dressing and undressing in the parking lot at the beach.  When I was smaller and lived here before that used to be a big problem.  The surfers would just drop everything next to their car and stop traffic and cause accidents.  Nowadays they use towels.

Driving around town you see wet suits hanging outside and surfboards on top of cars and hanging in garages.  You see the wake boarders playing in the shallow surf, and the surfers sitting in the water, riding waves, and walking to and from the water.  You see those surfers who surf standing on the board with long paddles.  Is that called surfing or something else?

So, I pick up a lot by osmosis about surfing.  But — the basic premise of sitting on your butt in really cold water, legs dangling in said cold water, for long periods of time — I don’t get that.  Is that fun?  How could you be so cold for so long and think that was fun?  And this is what I REALLY don’t get.  How do surfers know when to go in the water?

I have driven by the beach and the water was filled with surfers.  I look at the waves — they are gently lapping on the beach.  Looks like the tide is in.  No wind.  No whitecaps.  Yet, there are at least 50 surfers, sitting on their butts on their boards in the cold, cold water.  Just sitting.  I do my errands and return that way about 2 hours later.  Yup – looks like every last mother’s son of them is still sitting there.  Why? 

And then there are other days when the wind is blowing, the white caps are showing on the waves, and the tide is in.  Not a single surfer is in the water.  None.  Other times there seems to be good wave action, without the strong wind or white caps, and again — no surfers.  But, sometimes I DO see surfers in the water when there seems to be good wave action going on.  Why?? 

I have been walking along the beach and suddenly realize most if not all of the surfers are making their way out of the water and going back to their cars.  Did a bell go off and I didn’t hear it?  Was there some hand signal passed among them and I missed it?  It usually happens when the tide is going out, so does that have something to do with it?  I don’t get it.  I just don’t get it.

One thing I DO like about surfing.  I have seen just about every kind of surfer going into or getting out of the water.  Young.  Younger.  20something.  Middleaged.  Older than I.  Much older than I.  So much older than I are you KIDDing me??  Male.  Female.  All races, though white does dominate.  That is what I like about surfing.  The universal appeal.  And one more thing — the surfers getting into and out of the water?  They look happy and content.  So, I will never understand why someone wants to sit on their butt in the cold cold water for hours at a time…… but there must be something that is enjoyable about it.  And that’s what really matters.

Posted October 22, 2010 by Maureen in Randomness

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